If you arrive at Marrkalawa you’ve taken at least one wrong turn.

It required three generations of the one clan to secure our permits to traverse eastern Arnhem Land, a Northern Territory region so remote a wrong turn could land you in the camp of a bloke – carrying both a spear and a woomera – who would politely point out the deficiencies of SatNav and send you on your way. Such a confrontation only occurred the once, however once was enough to convince us to be better attuned to cultural sensitivities. It can take quite an effort to turn a fully laden KTM1190 around in deep sand – potentially far more time than the deployment of a woomera.

