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The recent BMW GS Safari to Cape York was for some a life-changing experience. Miles Davis was there (for the second half). Now, let’s explore BMW GS Safari Enduro
BMW GS Safari Enduro
There are few destinations in this adventure-riding land that conjure up more wonder than Cape York.
In August this year the BMW GS Safari Enduro embarked on a seven-day journey from Cairns to The Tip return, experiencing everything The Cape had to offer. For some it was a fun, scenic ride. For others it was probably the hardest ride they’d ever taken on.
The day had kicked off with a ride to The Tip and a short hike to the ‘You Are Standing At The Most Northern Point…’ sign for the mandatory group photo.
Late call
The BMW Safari last went to The Tip in 2006, so it’s been a while between drinks. I was in Germany attending a BMW Instructor certification course and missed the first few days of this one, but joined the group in Bamaga for the run south back to Cairns.
This year 130 riders gathered in Cairns for the mandatory welcome function, sign on, riders’ briefing and to get to know each other. Early the next morning it was on!
Miles Davis
Northbound
I missed the northward run, but just to put everyone in the picture, the first day ran 438km from Cairns to Koolburra Station, the second 311km to Archer River, and the third 414km to the far-northern village of Bamaga, the nearest airstrip and township to Cape York itself.
These first three days included parts of the famous (or infamous)Old Telegraph Track with its deep sand and some serious water crossings. Everyone was tested, including the BMW Safari tech support team who were on hand to get some drowned bikes back on the road. The sandy conditions took their toll and a couple of riders DNFed with minor injuries.
Some riders sampled the delights of Fruit Bat Falls, an incredible oasis in the middle of a dry and harsh environment, before crossing the Jardine ferry and the final stretch to Punsand Bay Resort for pizza night.
Punsand Bay is a small resort right on the beach, between Bamaga and The Tip.
In August this year the BMW GS Safari Enduro embarked on a seven-day journey from Cairns to The Tip and back.
Tip off
After a 40-hour mission from Germany, I arrived at Bamaga ‘International’ at about 4:00pm.
I was stoked, if not a bit surprised, all my flights had lined up and I was actually there in time for the fourth day and the ride back.
I don’t think Punsand Bay had changed much in the 11 years since my first visit. There were lots smiling faces kicking back around the outdoor bar area, while metres away a tiny chopper was flat out taking riders for scenic flights over the The Cape. Earlier, the day had kicked off with a ride to The Tip and a short hike to the ‘You Are Standing At The Most Northern Point…’ sign for the mandatory group photo.
It might only be a basic, rocky headland, but for many it’s a very special feeling to be standing on the very tip of The Cape.
I was reunited with my ‘Finke edition’ 1200 GS Rallye X.
One of the journos had ridden it on the first three days and jetted out of Bamaga on the flying cigar I’d arrived on. The bike was still crusty with the distinctive orange-tinted grime from Finke and the Simpson, now with a darker red layer from the harsh FNQ conditions.
I slipped back into Safari mode with the riders’ briefing, then had a great meal and caught up with the crew and customers.
From Munich in Germany to Cape York in far north Queensland. It’s all in a day’s work for the author.
Bamaga to Coen: 487km
It was a bit surreal. Two days earlier I’d been riding at the BMW Off Road facility, a 120-hectare quarry close to Munich.
Now I was leaving Bamaga on a dusty, red dirt road. I took a quick spin on the challenging, sandy shortcut track to The Tip and then headed south back to Bamaga and the Jardine River ferry.
The next stop was Fruit Bat Falls, and it was off with the gear down to jocks for a dip and a bit of a massage under the waterfall. It was very refreshing. I teamed up with my good mate Benno, the BMW Tech support rider who fixes flats, bent bikes and tries to keep everyone on the road. We rode together to the Bramwell Station Roadhouse for fuel and on to Bramwell Station itself where lunch had been arranged.
The road south was pretty fast at times, but dusty with some nasty, rocky sections. Unfortunately one of the guys hit a G-out way too fast on his 1150 GS and bottomed it out, causing some damage to the sump. He had to sit on the side of the track and wait for the support vehicle.
A few kilometres down the road I was surprised to see a boat on a trailer on the side of the road. The trailer had no wheels. It was a large tinny with a big outboard and one wheel had self-destructed. The alloy rim was gone and it was turning on the hub and a few stubby alloy spokes. The other wheel had snapped off at the hub. It would’ve been an expensive hassle to get that set up recovered, and it just shows how tough these conditions can be on vehicles.
A bit further on the road turned to tar and we rolled into the town of Coen.
The pub put on some great food, and not long after I felt like a jet-lagged zombie so I hit the sack for some much needed rest.
Coen to Cooktown: 387 km
After brekky we headed off for another day of FNQ adventure.
Some classic, red, Cape roads brought us to the fuelling stop of Archer River Roadhouse. Again dust was something you had to manage: don’t just sit in it.
Either pass or take a break, whichever suits you best.
The terrain and scenery were magnificent with some twisty sections that were a blast, rolling on the power on the big boxer-twin and steering with the throttle. You never get sick of that! I could smell the salty ocean in the distance as we came into Cooktown, a stark contrast to the dry, dusty conditions of the day. I encouraged riders to take the short, twisty spin to the lighthouse lookout which gave an amazing view of the town, the river and the vast ocean.
It’s always an impressive sight.
Staying at a flash hotel that night meant many riders spent the evening in the pool ordering drinks, having plenty of laughs and recounting the day.
Cooling off at Fruit Bat Falls.
Cooktown to Cairns: 226k
The last day of a Safari always has a tinge of sadness to it, and it’s amazing how quickly it comes around. But that just means you have to make the most of it!
The route had us heading out of town past the Lion’s Den Hotel and into croc country along the Bloomfield River. Heading south from there the road became narrow, steep and twisty in places and there was a lot more tourist traffic as we approached Cape Tribulation. There are a few creek crossings along this section but most were fairly dry at that time of year.
You never get sick of steering with the throttle.
That’s a wrap
It was a buzz rolling into the ritzy Palm Cove resort with another adventure over and, as usual, there was a real high among the Safari team.
The farewell function is where it’s not uncommon to let your hair down. Unfortunately for me, my travels took their toll and I went to bed when many went out and got a bit crazy.
Next year, 2018, will be a big year, kicking off with the GS Safari High Country in March.
Bring it on!
For some it was probably the hardest ride they’d ever taken on.
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