Riding reporters

This entry is part 7 of 16 in the series Adventure Rider Issue #26

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Last issue we left Irene and Lia running through the dunes of Barreirinhas in Brazil, planning to make their way to the hippy enclave of Jericoacoara. The story continues…

From the treehouse at Amontada it was literally a three-step stumble into the sea.

You can park your motor-cycles here and hire a jeep to go to Jeri.”

Astonished, I looked at the boys.

Were they joking? Why wouldn’t we be able to ride the last part to Jeri on our KTMs?

The question was answered immediately: the sand was too deep and there was no road. Also, we were assured only local guides knew the route and without guides we’d get lost.

Not even for a moment did we consider leaving our bikes behind. Aside from any-thing else, the cost of renting a jeep was likely to be beyond us.

The boys insisted and convinced Lia, so I gave in and hired them. We deflated our tires in preparation for 60km of deep sand while our guides both piled on one very small-looking bike.

Dark night

Sweat flowed down my back and the anxiety mounted as we battled along.

It was more than Lia could handle and she changed places with the pillion on the guides’ bike, electing to let him handle the KTM. He swabbed around like a fool and only just managed to keep her bike upright – which was better than could be said of my own riding. My style in the sand was similar to an aimless mop in the hands of a lazy cleaner. It was more falling off than falling down, but I couldn’t hold the bike upright and even got my foot stuck under a pannier. It was a hell that seemed to go on forever.

The guide on Lia’s bike saw I was having trouble and we exchanged bikes. Lia’s bike had less luggage and was lighter and that, at least, kept me going.

We arrived at a rickety bridge which was so ramshackle we decided to chance the water crossing instead, and that turned out to be a good decision.

The sand remained deep as the path narrowed and I watched the guide struggling to get my KTM through as the roost flew. Miraculously, I also managed to get through and stay upright.

I continued sweating uncontrollably and suddenly the deep, loose sand became firmer. I didn’t dare allow a feeling of relief in case it was only a short section, but I was grateful for the respite.

We continued through the day and into the pitch dark of the night. After what seemed forever I was amazed to hear the surf of the Atlantic Ocean.

For the first time since the start of the hell ride I felt a moment of triumph. I allowed myself to enjoy the sound of the surf, despite the terror of riding more on intuition than on sight in the darkness.

The end came in sight at last. I could see all kinds of lights along the shore that could only be Jeri.

Utterly broken but satisfied, I crawled off the bike.

The Pataxó ritual campfire was an unforgettable experience.
The Brazilians are an open, friendly and enthusiastic people.

Beached

After a few days of enjoying Jeri we pushed on and made another stop in Icarai de Amontada, a much quieter beach town. We acquired a beautiful treehouse right on the sand, underneath which we parked our 690s and from where it literally was a three-step stumble into the sea.

Once recovered from our ride through the sand we decided to have a look at Fortaleza with its city beach, boulevard and skyline of skyscrapers. It’s one of the many faces of Brazil. The big cities look like a mixture of European and American variants, but riding into the city, with it’s population of over a million people, we passed communities indistinguishable from African villages. Brazil is a country of the utmost extremes.

Young men ran in shorts and singlets, elderly women power-walked in fluorescent leggings and children did fitness exercises in one of Fortaleza’s many public sports gardens. Our eyes were popping out of our heads. Everyone on the promenade walked in a sports outfit and we seriously wondered if this was a requirement for inhabitants of this city.
We couldn’t get enough of the different types of beautiful, pristine beaches with the unlikely, azure-coloured water of Brazil. Although the the treehouse hasn’t been beaten, we thought Praia de Pipa with its pink-tinted rock cliffs adjacent to the beach was even more idyllic.

And I haven’t mentioned the dolphins yet.

On the orange sand master looking see what adventures Brazil had in store.

Fin review

According to a French couple we met, dolphins could be seen every morning.

Immediately after breakfast, I dived into the ocean and after drifting around for a while, four fins suddenly surfaced. I even looked straight into the eye of a dolphin right next to me when he poked his head through the water’s surface!

It was very exciting, because when you’re up so close they’re rather huge.

With a wide smile I climbed out of the sea. It was time to leave this breathtaking place behind and get back on our orange sand masters to see what more adventures Brazil had in store for us.

The last asphalt before heading off-road to Caraíva.

Smile

We left Praia de Pipa in a ferocious wind that nearly blew us off our bikes.

We chose to take a sand path along the beach instead of the regular road and just as we started the wind backed 180 degrees, the sun disappeared behind dark, threatening clouds, and in moments it was raining cats and dogs. Sand is one thing, but ploughing through a huge pile of mud was something different.

We decided to switch to the asphalt.

Of course the rain stopped immediately.

What a joy it was to be back on our KTM 690 Enduro Rs again after a few days sitting still. What great machines, both light and viable, but also real power beasts.

We’d planned to make Olinda our lunch stop, and according to the travel guide it was one of the most beautiful and well-preserved colonial cities in Brazil.

The city was in Dutch hands in the 17th century and it was stunning. From the highest point above Olinda the panorama showed green in the foreground and in the background the coast and skyline of modern Recife.

A man approached and was sincerely moved we’d come to eat in his restaurant and travel through his city and country.

He thanked us and wanted to know everything about us and our bikes and, of course, he wanted to take a picture.

The Brazilians continued to amaze us.

What an open, friendly and enthusiastic people they are!

Fortaleza with its city beach, boulevard and skyline of skyscrapers.

All downhill

After a few days we were on our way, heading to Chapada Diamantina, one of the most beautiful natural parks in Brazil.

Departure Olinda wasn’t as easy as riding in. A very steep and long descent began our outbound route. The few cars that took the road did it at a creeping pace, brakes squealing the whole way.

I took off downward at an uncontrollable speed, even with the throttle closed.

I pumped the brakes but it hardly reduced my speed and the road seemed to descend for a very long time. My heart pounded loudly when I saw a blind crossing ahead. I tried to wash off speed, but managed to slow only a fraction.

I hoped there would be no other traffic, because if there was I was screwed.

A collision would be inevitable.

I hit the intersection to find it empty.

What a relief!

I’d seen enough of Olinda. It was high time to leave it behind.

The next day we put in a long ride to cover as much distance as possible, passing through rolling green hills of sugarcane. The sunlight shone through the cane and turned it even greener.

The beach village of Caraíva.

Shell shocker

The landscape changed.The turquoise-coloured sea shone through the numerous tall palm trees. It was the ‘Gold Coast’ of the country and one resort followed the other. Seeing sea turtles was high on our wish list, preferably in the wild, but we were given a tip to go to Praia do Forte where Projeto Tamar is located, a nonprofit organiza-tion that annually hatches 500,000 baby turtles and helps to recover injured adult species and sets them free.

As soon as we approached Projeto Tamar we were overcome with a ‘Disney World’ feeling. We wouldn’t have been surprised if suddenly a life-sized equivalent of Mickey Mouse in a turtle outfit had jumped in front of us. Although it’s a fine initiative and it’s thanks to them we can enjoy the animals, we were left with the feeling the large sea creatures swim in pools which are far too small. It was hard to accept when the immense Atlantic Ocean was just a few metres away.

Praia de Pipa with its pink-tinted rock cliffs adjacent to the beach was idyllic.

Unforgettable

Our trip continued along a winding coastal route through the Atlantic rainforest to Salvador, a city where everything is about music and dance.

We enjoyed the live music on the streets and tried the local specialty, acarajé (fried beans with shrimp balls), but it wasn’t our favourite. That honour went to the purple açai ice cream we combined with honey, banana and muesli.

Chapada Diamantina was a 400km ride which we managed in one day, and where we booked a tour which consisted of climbing a mountain top, scrambling between rocks and river beds, and taking a cave trip where we snorkeled in clear blue water in the pitch dark. It was gorgeous. We could’ve stayed for weeks doing countless walks, but we moved on quickly, hoping to see migratory whales.

After a lovely, curved, coastal road of reasonable asphalt we hit the high-way and headed for Caravelas, the whale-watching base. Unfortunately, October was just too late in the season so we decided to keep moving.

The evening set in as we rode a narrow sand path over small hills to the beach village of Caraíva. The hills kept on following each other and the path became steeper and narrower. Just as I wondered if we were heading in the right direction, I saw a hand-crafted signpost that took away my doubt. In the ink-dark I changed from low beam to high beam continuously. The hard, red sand changed to a loose, white variety which, fortunately, was very manageable on our orange sand masters.

After 60km we ended up in a parking lot where we left our KTMs to cross a river and go where no motor vehicles were allowed: Caraíva.

Via Leandro, who we met in our hostel, put us in touch with the Pataxó Indians. We stayed with them overnight and even saw a ritual campfire. With painted faces and bodies, clothed in wicker skirts and headdresses, the Pataxó danced around the fire and it was an unforgettable experience.

Future issues will follow The Riding Reporters as their journey across South America continues. To stay in touch with Irene and her travels, search irenewouters.

ridingreporters on Facebook or Instagram.

Brazil is a country of contrasts. The big cities look like a mixture of European and American variants, but the outskirts are ringed with communities indistinguishable from African villages.
A narrow sand path to Maragogi on Brazil’s ‘Gold Coast’.

Facts and information

Brazil is the largest country in both South America and Latin America. As the world’s fifth-largest country by both area and population, it’s the largest country to have Portuguese as an official language and the only one in the Americas.

Bounded by the Atlantic Ocean on the east, Brazil has a coastline of 7500km. It borders all other South American countries except Ecuador and Chile and covers 47.3 per cent of the continent’s land area. Its Amazon River basin includes a vast tropical forest, home to diverse wildlife, a variety of ecological systems, and extensive natural resources spanning numerous protected habitats. This unique environmental heritage makes Brazil one of 17 megadiverse countries, and is the subject of significant global interest and debate regarding deforestation and environmental protection. In the Amazon forest there still live undiscovered Indian tribes. Portugal claimed Brazil as a colony to its empire in 1500, but nowadays Brazil is an independent republic with the world’s eighth-largest economy.

How to get there Only a few of the more than 4000 airports in Brazil provide international flights. São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro are the main two, but Belo Horizonte, Brasília, Recife, Natal, and Fortaleza are also possibilities. You can also opt to enter overland via a bordering country.

Food and lodging Overnight lodgings and food are readily available along the route, including both privately owned and national chains.

You can even lodge at hotels at the numerous gas stations.TravellingBrazil has 1,751,868km of roads, and 94.5 per cent are unpaved. Nonetheless you can often choose paved roads to get to your destination, including excellent six-lane highways.

You have to pay toll as a motorcyclist for highways in some parts of Brazil, like in Rio de Janeiro for example.

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