NZ 2017 Dusty Butt

This entry is part 9 of 16 in the series Adventure Rider Issue #26

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The New Zealand 2017 Kriega Dusty Butt Ian Bowden gets a Dusty Butt after a decade of trying.

I’ve been trying to get to the annual Dusty Butt ride for the last 10 years, but circumstances have always got in the way.

This year I’d just returned from working overseas when I checked the internet to find the ride was on in two weeks and all 150 positions were filled.

Bugger! It looked like I’d missed out again.

The rocky climb up the Awakino Skifield trail. The rider on the DR in the foreground had burnt out his clutch.

A break

A week later at a local trail ride a friend mentioned he’d entered the Dusty Butt but couldn’t make it.

He suggested I should take his place.

That got the mind into gear. I live in the top half of the North Island and the ride was in the central South Island. Was it possible to make all the arrangements and get there at such short notice?

‘Hell yeah!’ I decided. It was doable – just.

Ride fever clicked into overdrive and with just two days to departure I got busy planning. The bike needed prepping, gear needed packing, ferries had to be booked and accommodation to be organised. Oh. And permission from the wife, of course. Hadn’t I said that?

I did it all and managed to leave on time.

1400km of great, challenging riding on New Zealand’s South Island.

Priorities

Rain was forecast for the departure day and was I looking forward to riding my DR650 with new tyres for 500km on boring highways to board the Cook Strait Ferry?

Hell, no.

My sensible wife said, “Why don’t you trailer your bike down to Wellington, stay overnight at Pete’s place and catch the ferry the next morning? That way you won’t get a wet arse?”

I didn’t need much persuasion.

I loaded the bike onto the trailer, hopped in the fourbee and cranked up the heater, blue-toothed my iPhone for music and headed south in absolute comfort. Oh yeah.

I kissed the wife as I left.

Riding through Rainbow Station in the Marlborough region of the South Island on the way to the start.

What to expect

The Kriega Dusty Butt, often called the ‘DB1.4K’ consists of approximately 1400km of on- and off-road riding over three days.

It crosses through remote sections of NZ’s south island offering absolutely spectacular scenery, but it’s important to keep in mind it’s no dawdle in the park – nor even a typical trail or road ride. Riders must conquer a 1400km route that’s physically and mentally draining and requires up to 14 hours of riding each day, depending on riding skill and the number of stops taken.

The ride isn’t intended for the faint-hearted, but it’s an epic adventure like no other. Optional challenge sections offer the competent off-road rider some seriously challenging and fun terrain to sink their teeth into and should only be tackled by riders with good off-road skills. The route includes terrain that challenges bike-control skills over extended rough, steep, rutted, or rocky tracks, deep bogs and multiple stream and river crossings. These sections will also challenge riders’ fortitude as they navigate tracks past very high, steep slopes and bluffs.

And riders need to be prepared for snow, even in February.

Hamish and Doctor Mike leaving the forest after Waimate.

Start Point: Fairlie

I’d taken some great deviations through the back country before arriving at Fairlie to the start at the packed Gladstone Hotel bar. A big buffet dinner, sign in, ride packs and a briefing all ran in due course.

I’d come alone, and as it was a requirement to ride in pairs or groups for safety and support I teamed up with three other solo riders.

It was great finding out over a beer that Mike, our youngest team member, was a doctor. How good’s that? Your own doc-tor on the scene if you have an off.

Our team of four consisted of myself from Tauranga on a DR650, team doctor Mike who’d ridden a KTM350EXC from Auckland, Hamish from Hawkes Bay on a new Africa Twin and Kevin from Christchurch on another DR650.

Hut Creek, deep in the Hawkdun Range.

Dusty plus

The next morning I woke to the sound of bikes riding out of town, in the dark, at 6:00am.

And I’d thought I was keen.

After a quick breakfast I loaded up and met the others at 7:00am. It was a beautiful, fine, clear day and the forecast was for the next week to be the same. With the route loaded on the GPS we were off, straight into a cold river crossing on the outskirts of town.

It wasn’t long before I figured out how the event got its name – it was bloody dusty. I’ve done plenty of riding on the South Island, but mostly with small groups and usually with me leading the way, so I’ve been the dust maker more than the dust taker.

After a relatively easy 115km we passed through Waimate, choosing not to fuel up as we all had plenty for the next 100km section. Soon after leaving Waimate we charged into a private forest with fantastic trails that led onto greater farm trails through the hilly back country.

It was great riding and the only trouble was my older technology GPS was confusing, giving me options at many of the intersections rather than the planned, loaded route. After going the wrong way a couple of times and losing touch with my teammates I opted to follow rather than lead. Their GPS units were working better than mine.

Taking a break afer the first big, rocky climb.

Rockhopping

After food, fuel and a GPS reboot at Kurow we hit the first challenge section.

The four of us had agreed to do these and help each other if any difficulties arose.

Well, the climb up the Awakino ski field track was no walk in the park. Steep and rocky, it sure was a challenge. My heart rate was well up when I reached the top with sweat pouring down my face, but the views and the crisp mountain air made it all the more worthwhile. We’d passed quite a few bikes on the ascent, including one chap who burnt out the clutch on his DR.

After more rock hopping and scenic overload we descended the Ida Valley to Omakau. That section was a long 160km, so a fuel top up, pie and energy drink were required to keep bike and body moving forward for the remaining 140km.

Four tired, dirty and thirsty boys rode into Alexandra at 7:00pm. We’d taken 12 hours to complete the first day, and we slept and snored well that night.

Start of the Nevis Road.

Doctor down

We were up and riding by 7:00am the following day, and the route kicked off with a speedway-sliders’ dream road.

Hamish was up front on the big Africa Twin and leaving big slash marks for everyone else to follow. When we pulled up the grins were stretching from ear to ear.

Next it was on to private farmland with a few grassy ruts that still had the previous night’s dew present, and this caught out Doctor Mike who went down rather hard. Fortunately he wasn’t hurt bad, but was heard muttering, “I treat people who do this all the time, I should know better.”

Ha! He did know better: he was out there doing it with us.

The top of the Old Man Range.

Piano play

Passing through Roxburgh mid-morning after more picture-perfect Otago countryside, we had a quick team talk before tackling the infamous Piano Flat challenge section.

We’d agreed to keep each other in sight. It would be impossible for Hamish alone to extract the big twin if he got stuck in one of the many bogs. Luckily it hadn’t rained for a few days so the bogs weren’t full, but it still took skill and cunning to stay on track. With only one minor case-out that had to be photographed before an easy extraction, this section proved well worth doing.

Taking the time for a decent coffee and sit-down lunch in Lumsden after refuelling gave the body time to revitalise.

Author Ian having a breather at the top of the Awakino ski field climb.

Nevis and the Oldies

There was a bit of blacktop before turning off for the Nevis section, an excellent ride with its many river crossings and fast trails. That section would have to rate very high on the excite-o-meter.

Just before the Nevis Saddle we turned right into the Old Man and Old Woman Ranges. I hadn’t ridden through these ranges before, and what a bonus!

The trails were some of the best and fastest we’d done. It was a real fun blast and the views as we descended the mountains to Roxburgh were magnificent.

What a day. We rode into Alexandra at 5:00pm to log the shortest of the three days’ riding.

Piano Flat Trail.

The long haul

A cool cruise down the blacktop started the third day as we headed to Lawrence.

Apart from a sunstrike problem on the dusty hill sections getting to the Lawrence servo, all went well.

There’s only one card servo in this small town and a lot of bikes had to refuel for the next, long, 280km section to Omarama, so there was a delay.

We then headed into the Lammerlaw and Lammermoor Ranges, firstly through a pine forest, then onto the tussock lands.

This led to the Dunstan trails and the challenge section to the Old Serpentine Church with its big holes and washouts.

Care was required not to drop into some-thing that would require a helicopter for extraction.

We road on past the Poolburn Reservoir heading north and crossed the main road into the Hawkdun Ranges.

This was big country with massive river valleys. Again we took the challenge-section option, staying in the valley with its many tricky river crossings.

Unfortunately Doctor Mike slipped on the rocks in one of the crossings. He had the sense to shut down as the bike went over and conveniently lay under the bike in the cold water to stop the motor filling with water. It was unintended I think – but very effective. We didn’t have to carry out a dewatering job after lifting it off him.

“Don’t worry, Doc,” we reassured him.

“We wouldn’t have let you drown unless you’d let water get into that motor!”

Food and fuel was a welcome sight when we finally arrived at Omarama.

It was a long 280km and bikes and bodies were running on empty.

Black Forest Station Trail.
What three days of spirited riding did to a new tyre on the DR.

Fire and the Black Forest

After leaving Omarama enroute to Black Forest Station, the police had stopped all traffic due to a scrub fire near the road.

We watched as helicopters with monsoon buckets doused it down and after 45 minutes they let us through. This delay meant a big group bunched up when we arrived at the station, resulting in a bit of a sprint to try for the front to stay out of the dust cloud.

Hamish and I won this sprint with some rather spirited riding and quick gate opening and closing.

After the station, which was another excellent ride, we rode over McKenzie’s Pass, finally arriving back in Fairlie, dusty, parched and knackered!

Man. Cold beers never tasted so good.

Hamish with the big Africa Twin cased out on Piano Flat.

Done and dusted

What a ride. 1400km of South Island high country takes a lot out of you over three days.

I’d have to say it’s the longest three days of riding I’ve encountered, but also among the best. I’ve only put the high-lights in this story as there was far too much riding to document it all, and I now see why so many return year after year from around the country, and why the keenest of adventure riders were together in the one place. It’s a great ride and I’d love to return when circumstances allow.

I’ll be working on those circumstances.

A final word from my wife: “I’ve got circumstances around the house you may want to work on!”

What can I say? “Coming dear!”

Many thanks to Gordon and Clair of Epic Adventures who are now the organisers of this great annual ride. It’s absolutely fantastic and long may it last.

Enjoying the view over the Umbrella Mountains.