By 
If you’re considering taking a bike to Cuba for a week, a month or more, Paul Nomad recommends you do it.
The caves of Viñales where African slaves would hide out to escape slave labour.
In May 2014 I was among a group of seven riders, including five Australians, an American and a Mexican who sailed on the German yacht Stahlratte from Isla Mujeres, Mexico, to spend 20 days riding in Cuba.
We mostly went our separate ways – two couples stayed together – and had different and unique experiences. But we all found it challenging, emotional, enriching and we’re keen to do it all over again.
Local kids at La Bajada on the eastern peninsula of Cuba.
The author with his new Cuban number plate. He had to return it before he left.
Ship to shore
Cuba is larger than you think.
If you want to see the whole island you need at least two or three weeks just to cover the distances, and if you want to really spend some time in the two large cities and smaller regional towns, a month or two is necessary.
It’s not easy to get there with a motorcycle, the Stahlratte being one of the very few options. The eight-day return trip on the boat is an adventure in itself.
Depictions of traditional life in Viñales.
A Latin American Motorcycle Association (LAMA) member with his farkled Ural.
Machinery time warp
Cuba is like going back to the 1950s, with some smaller towns not much different to life before the industrial revolution. Horse-drawn carts are a regular form of transport, as are bicycles and good old walking. All trucks, buses, tractors-pulling-trailers and private cars are used to transport people, and if you have an empty car or bike you’re expected to stop and pick up a passenger, at least if you’re local.
The larger cities of Havana and Santiago have a plethora of old American cars: Dodge, Ford, Chevrolet, Pontiac and many more, kept going by a population that are masters of mechanical ingenuity. Two-stroke and diesel smoke is thick in the air, and there’s a regular lungful behind every bus, truck and tractor.
All the motorcycles are old two-stroke Jawas and MZs, except for the Russian-made Urals that carry sidecars. These WWII relics, originally BMWs taken and built in Russia for the past 60 years, are plentiful, and bear a passing resemblance to my 2006 R1200GS Adventure. Motorcycles are used regularly as taxis. Riders carry an extra helmet, and passengers from all age groups and walks of life can be seen as pillions.
The urban police ride Yamaha 250s, while the highway patrol use old Moto Guzzi 750s.
Being on a modern bike meant an instant crowd, and 100 questions at every stop.
Local customs
We arrived on a Saturday in Cienfuegos, a picturesque port city in the central south of Cuba.
The weekend isn’t a good time to get customs clearance, and it meant a two-day process involving three lots of triplicate paperwork – remember carbon paper? The Licensing Department then issued plates and stickers after painstakingly searching for engine numbers and VINs.
They worked late and went the extra mile for us with friendliness and good humour.
On Tuesday morning we collected the last sticker and headed our separate ways to explore Cuba.
I rode south-east towards Santiago where I’d heard the music was great, and it was.
I travelled through the beautiful touristy town of Trinidad and stayed at a place called Ciega De Avila in a Casa Familiar – homes licensed by the government to take tourists.
They’re a great way to engage with the locals and they provide huge meals for a little extra.
Prices are capped at 25CUCs – about AUD$28.50.
The going is slow with roads in average condition, empty of much traffic but full of horses, cyclists and various sized trucks.
I stayed the next night at Bayamo still on my way to Santiago.
These ‘quality’ backroads were fairly typical away from the main centres.
All shapes and sizes
The road into Santiago is a major six-lane highway, although some of it’s not complete, and with less-than-average signage there are stretches where traffic in both directions shares three lanes.
The centre lane is used for over-taking by those with courage.
Santiago itself is a bustling city with a great music scene, less-than-inspiring food, an eclectic collection of people and lots of smoky old cars. I stayed for four nights exploring the city on foot and finding some of the many little music venues.
Musicians play in the squares, and along dedicated streets where people spontaneously break into dance. The city has a strong Caribbean feel with interesting colours and fashions worn by the women. The men sported trendy haircuts and smart clothing.
It’s hard to determine the ‘average’ Cuban because they’re a mix of people from many cultures including all shapes, sizes and shades.
A LAMA welcoming party fuelled by local rum.
Talk the talk
Any motorcycle built after 1960 is considered new in Cuba.
Riding a big BMW attracts lots of attention and every time I stopped I was swamped with people. “How much does it cost?’ ‘How fast does it go? ’ ‘How many ccs?’ ‘ How many gears does it have?’ and ‘Are you from Germany?’The concept of having a German bike from Australia was hard to get their heads around, although another rider on a Suzuki was never asked if he was Japanese.
A foreigner can’t be a passive observer in Cuba. He’ll always be the centre of attention and an anomaly. It can test the patience and resolve, especially if you have limited or no Spanish. Every fuel, food and drink stop saw a crowd gather with the questions listed. The men are very mechanically minded and greatly interested in details of the bike, but with limited Spanish it made for some interesting confusion.
Occasionally there was an English speaker who would answer for me once he had the details.
A reprieve!
City police use the ‘modern’ Yamaha Virago 250.
Taking directions
The 1000km ride to Havana took three days and I discovered how slippery horse manure can be when mixed with leaked diesel, two-stroke oil and a little rain.
I visited more small towns and Casa Familiars along the way, enjoying the varying but tropical landscapes. The weather was warm and slightly humid which was ideal for me.
People were friendly and welcoming and I never had concern for safety of the bike or myself.
Nothing was taken from any of the bikes.
When you stop in a town centre you attract a big crowd, but they rarely touch anything.
They’re more interested in seeing the top speed on your speedo and any electronic gadgetry, although our GPSs were taken by customs when we arrived.
The towns were varied and rich in history and culture. The food continued to be average on the streets but plentiful in the casas.
Guantanamo – location of the infamous Guantanamo Bay terrorist prison.
Benefit of experience
• What’s the best bike?
Any bike is suitable. Make sure it’s in good condition before going.
Despite the Cubans’ ingenuity at fixing mechanical things, mod-ern bikes are out of their realm of experience and you won’t find any parts that fit.
• What is the fuel like?
94 octane is easily available and very good quality. The GS ran like a dream the whole time. It varies from $1.20 to $1.40 per litre. If you can get by on 89 octane you’ll save between 20c and 40c per litre.
• What currency do Cubans use?
There are two currencies. CUCs are valued at the same rate as US dollars. The national peso is worth 1/25th of that. In the regional areas you’ll need local currency and you can buy lunch for under one dollar, but fuel is always in CUCs. You’ll get con-fused at the start, but you’ll get used to it.
Fast talkers
Havana has to be seen to be believed.
In my eyes it is a city of former immense wealth and glory now in a state of decline, and I found it a sad place with people disillusioned about what they really got from the revolution. Others saw it differently and you have to make up your own mind. Without doubt it’s a fascinating city with a long and colourful history, beautiful buildings, incredible museums and the best cigars in the world. The magnificently restored cars from the 1950s can all be hired as taxis and they are genuine works of art.
There’s no advertising, but plenty of bill-boards celebrated the revolution in 1959 and the importance of unity, freedom and dedication to the cause. Poverty is hard to define in Cuba. It exists, but the safety net of socialism ensures that everyone has the basics of a roof over their heads and food, and university education and medical services are free. However, you’ll be a target for swindlers and fast talkers in the cities trying to extract some dollars out of you.
They will want to show you around, take you to the ‘best’ restaurant, hook you up with ‘chicas’, and all because they’re your new amigo.
Not many Cubans can afford to leave their country and many see tourists as rich people who live their entire lives in expensive hotels and restaurants.
There’s no such thing as a passive observer on a modern bike in a regional town in Cuba.
Workin’ progress
By chance I arrived in this part of the country as the Latin American Motorcycle Association (LAMA) were having its annual gathering in Viñales, just a couple of hours from Havana. In an area that to me was the most picturesque in Cuba, this group of dedicated motorcyclists had a museum of old British bikes including BSA, Triumph, Norton, Matchless and even a Whizzer that was chopped. Indians, Harleys, and some Japanese makes rounded out the collection.
All the bikes were classics and all ran beautifully and they keep them going with anything available. Car pistons and rings, braking systems from industrial machinery, wheels modified from more modern Hondas…they made them work and they looked incredible.
Paul Nomad is an Australian rider currently on a three-year solo around-theworld trip on his 2006 BMW R1200GS Adventure. Follow his journey at www.paulnomad.blogspot.com.au or on Facebook: Paul Nomad RTW.
A rum go
Most of our group from the Stahlratte managed to meet up in Viñales and were warmly welcomed with one hell of a Cuban party with music, dancing and rum poured down our throats from a woman hanging off a rafter. They were great people, it was a great event and there were some well-earned belly laughs.
Si! Si! Si!
For the next few days I rode with another Aussie around the coast of the northern peninsular, exploring the little coastal towns, tasting the pizzas and hamburgers and engaging with locals. It showed how diverse the country is, with beautiful mountains and coasts, some white, sandy beaches and Caribbean-blue waters.
Once back in Cienfuegos we swapped stories and went through the faster process of returning the plates, stickers and licenses.
The next four days we sailed back to Mexico on the Stahlratte.
The first couple of days were a time of quiet reflection where each of us thought about what this amazing journey had meant and remembering the people we’d met, the places we’d seen and the feelings we’d felt. The last couple of days we found the rum and Cuban cigars and had some unique Stahlratte party time.
Should you take a motorcycle to Cuba?
Yes. Yes. Yes.
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