Advrider Older MagazinesADV ReviewADV Routes & DestinationsADV Riding Skills & SafetyAdventure Rider Magazine Congregation

The Long Paddock

0
This entry is part 5 of 19 in the series Adventure Rider Issue #30

Pioneer Australian grazier Earnest J. Glenn drove his Border Leicester sheep along a NSW stock route known as The Long Paddock. The trail stretches from the southern border country of the Murray River more than 600km along the Cobb Highway to Wilcannia. Graeme Sedgwick took his new SWM Superdual for a first-hand look at Glenn’s legacy.

Dawn energised one to get on with the journey.
The Long Paddock stretches from the southern border country of the Murray River more than 600km along the Cobb Highway to Wilcannia.
Graeme Sedgwick took his new SWM Superdual for a run along a pioneering stock route.

To orient myself with the country of Glenn’s life and begin the journey of discovery I visited his final place of rest under the gums at Mathoura’s Pioneer Cemetery.

Mathoura is a small township on the Cobb Highway, site of one of the country’s largest redgum forests, home to congregations of cockatiel, and marked by Yellow and Eastern Rosellas chattering and flying about. Glenn’s resting place is next to another belonging to a fellow called ‘Bewglass’, who they say passed away without family. Such wasGlenn’s care for others that before his own passing he decided he’d lay Bewglass to rest alongside so he’d have
eternal companionship.

The ‘unexpected’ presented as a complete loss of rear-tyre pressure.

The country’s conditions, whether stinking-hot, saturated or reflective of a pallet of seasonal colourations, was peaceful, especially if a rider paused to absorb the panoramic landscapes.

The sprawling geography, paddocks and station homesteads in southern-central New South Wales are awe-inspiring no matter how you choose to slice or dice the offerings. They’re complemented by a diversity of human characters, story-telling and attitudes that make some urban dwellers truly underwhelming by comparison.

An absolute hoot on the Superdual.

Air time

Inspired, I headed west from Mathoura in search of Yarree, today a shadow of its former big-wool-clip and sheep-stud days under Glenn’s leadership.

As the kilometres passed people raised their hands as if to say “G’day,” as they went about their business across the shallow undulations of the landscape.

It was a relaxing ride experience over what, at first, seemed isolated expanses of bitumen mixed with a never-ending, almost grid-like, supply of unsealed choices. But sometimes the unexpected does throw a spanner in the works, and on this occasion my ‘unexpected’ presented as a complete loss of rear-tyre pressure.

But as can sometimes happen when events lower personal spirits, you can be lucky. A local passer-by named John Goulding stopped and generously provided his invaluable assistance.

I was able to resume my journey and pulled the pin on the riding just before dusk, when kangaroos and emus of all sizes were on the move.

I settled on a secluded spot under a classic sunset that silhouetted the SWM perfectly.

Stations in the Woomboota region are still running the Border Leicester breed pioneered by Glenn.

Carry on

Dawn was filled with the sounds of nature’s orchestra, thanks to the birdlife that energised one to get on with the journey.

I headed west and the country provided more opportunity to let the SWM off the leash. Bunnaloo, Caldwell, Burraboi and Jimaringle came and went before I headed west via the irrigation country to Moulamein, a peaceful locality situated on the banks of the Edwards River.

From Moulamein my passage continued north past a paddock which proudly boasted more than 7000 massive, square hay bales. The enormity of that stockpile had to be seen to be believed. It was especially impressive against the flattening landscape.

Out there it’s survival of the fittest, and Australia’s largest bird of prey, the wedge-tailed eagle, was a perfect illustration of the philosophy. With eyes of dark-brown, a wingspan as much as 2.3 metres and legs feathered all the way to off-white clawed toes, the bird was a picture of majesty. They’re regal gliders, skilled in the art of puncturing and dismembering, and must do well on the very plentiful supply of kangaroo and emu carcasses on roadsides.

It was a relaxing ride experience.

Way cool

Looking for an alternative passage I diverted along a track from Booroorban, just west of the Cobb Highway, before a further change of direction westward toward Tchelery. From there I turned south toward the bush irrigation country split by the Wakool River, various billabongs and waterways with peculiar names like ‘Niemur’.

It’s interesting to note the NSW Government established the Wakool irrigation supply network in 1930 following a series of droughts. A weir was built in 1933 and provided significant unemployment relief during the depression. It also allowed the Wakool region to become a rice centre to supplement a national food shortage during World War 2. It was a sobering contrast to the more abundant food supplies these days.

The Border Leicester is a large-framed, docile, dual-purpose meat-and long-wool-producing breed.

Border run

My passage south soon hit upon what otherwise would’ve been a stretch of slippery, gravel-topped, hard-clay-based secondary roads. Due to recent rain the surface had glued to the base perfectly and presented a magic high-speed road with heaps of positive grip. There was plenty of opportunity to indulge in a more spirited blast on the SWM all the way to Ballbank, where I turned south-east. The Gunbower State Forest country characterised the expanses, chock-a-block with tracks and gravel roadways continuously criss-crossing one another beside the Murray River, the border between New South Wales and Victoria.

I programmed my mental compass to head essentially southeast, spontaneously picking and choosing my direction while keeping basically in line with River Road, the main route through the picturesque forest area flanking The Murray. As I exited near Wee Wee Rup into country Victoria I realised my overland adventure was soon to end.

A sculpture at the gateway to the Koolabong property.

Super jewel

I plotted a passage to Serpentine via as many linking backroads as possible, but it wasn’t long before the country became more and more familiar, thankfully including an assortment of natural and planted forests. For me that signalled a bevy of unsealed tracks and options that sucked me in.

The most notable of the areas were the Wombat State Forest and the Brisbane Ranges National Park. Each in their own way afforded an extravagant choice of uncomplicated flowing, and, in most instances, well-maintained, off-the-grid, adventure-styled riding loaded with relaxed variety. It was an absolute hoot on the Superdual.

It was a great way to conclude my 1670km overland ride to discover the country that was a big part of the life of a great Australian pioneer: grazier Earnest J. Glenn.

Wombat State Forest was a notable area

Series Navigation<< The Truth Is Out ThereCongregation 2018 >>

Motorrad Garage KLR650

Previous article

BMW GS Safari. High On Adventure

Next article

You may also like

Comments

Comments are closed.