Dunns swamp – Another great secret location

This entry is part 15 of 18 in the series Adventure Rider Issue #18

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Bob Wozga wondered if the name of the destination was chosen to keep the place secret. He and few friends went to find out what was at the unglamorously named NSW location. On the way he discovered a few great stories and some amazing settings from Australia’s past. It made him go all arty with his camera.

After the longest summer since records had been kept, autumn arrived overnight.

I enjoyed clear blue skies and a chill in the air as I rode along the Northern Road. I’d arranged to meet a mate at Mt Victoria on the western side of the Great Dividing Range, about 120km west of Sydney.

As you glance at the pictures while flicking through these pages, you might think, “Oh God…another DR650 versus KLR piece.” But you’d be wrong. We already know the DR is a far superior bike and there’s no need to go further with that.

Hot coffee and a ham-and-cheese croissant made the Mt Victoria coffee shop a convenient meeting place before heading to Dunns swamp, just outside Rylstone. We’d made plans to catch up with friends at the lake for a spot of fishing, and to generally get out of Sydney before the Easter rush.

Deep down

A few kilometres along the Darling Causeway a side lane snaked into the valley below and brought us to Hartley Vale. It’s amazing what you find down lanes. The Comet Inn, built in 1879, is an impressive-looking establishment with iron-work and old-world charm. It was too early for the doors to open, but I made a note to check the place out one day.

The road led us through to the Vale of Clwydd (pronounced Clyde – those crazy Welsh) and into Lithgow. If you have the time and are old school, the Small Arms Factory is worth a visit. It’s interesting to see what used to be produced there.

Taking the Mudgee turn-off at Marrangaroo, we passed Wallerawang power station. On a foggy night this place still reminds me of a 1980’s James Bond film set, with flood lights eerily glowing through the mist.

Riders are often forgotten about when roads are upgraded, but this time they got it right. The roads are wide and grippy, bends are nice and the scenery is great. I think the designer was a rider. It’s a popular road today and we were overtaken by parties of road and adventure riders. A group of KTM riders was helping a mate with his bike at Ben Bullen station and waved us on, saying they were just checking the bikes before heading into The Gardens Of Stone.

Further along, Pearson’s lookout gave a 180-degree view of the Capertee Valley, the world’s second-largest enclosed canyon.

Overlooking the Gardens Of Stone and Wollemi National Park, it’s larger than the Grand Canyon in the US, just not as deep.

It holds towns like Glen Davis and Glen Alice, and pictures don’t do it justice.

Royal treatment

Capertee makes a convenient rest stop.

Henry Lawson wrote about it in Song Of The Old Bullock Driver. It was a Cobb And Co stopping point and major rail terminus.

The pub was the original Cob And Co stop before it moved across the road, and the chimney from the stables still stands.

Originally, the pub was a single-storey timber establishment, but it’s been burnt down twice: the first time by wives upset their husbands were spending too much time there, the second time by a salesman that accidently left a candle alight and the curtains caught fire.

Maybe it should have been named the Phoenix Inn, seeing as it keeps rising from the ashes. It’s been rebuilt after both fires.

Karen, the publican, is doing a great job of restoring the Royal Capertee Hotel.

Open five days a week with a shed out the back to keep bikes safe overnight, single rooms are available from $55 a night.

There’s a large, comfortable eatery at the rear, an open fireplace in the library with motorcycle magazines on the coffee table and a piano with a sign saying: PLEASE DO NOT PLAY THE PIANO. Underneath, written in a child’s hand is the postscript: ‘unless you can play properly’. It gives the place a warm atmosphere.

Graham behind the bar is a bike rider himself and understands the needs of riders. He’s a great source of information about tracks and roads to explore in the area. The Royal Capertee Hotel is well worth a stop to break up a ride. Give them a call on (02) 63590172.

People power

Heading west, we turned right at the old roadhouse in Ilford. That linked us to the Bylong Valley Way and brought us into Kandos.

A stationary flying fox over the road heralds the entrance to Kandos, a company town famous for Kandos-brand cement.

The cement plant closed in 2011 and the coal mine closed in 2014, and empty shops and a melancholy atmosphere surrounded the main street as we rode through town.

In contrast, at Rylstone the wide streets were surrounded with colour as locals have opened coffee and gift shops in defiance.

The people are to trying to encourage tourism to keep their town alive. The streets were filled with cars, and looking at the architecture of the buildings, this must once have been a wealthy settlement. We were glad it appeared the locals’ activity was paying off.

Tyres that bind

After filling up at the corner service station, we headed to the swamp.

The road flowed into the valley, black-and-white cows dotted the fields, long grass made patterns in the paddocks as it blew in the wind and the bikes glided along.

As the valley narrowed, bitumen became gravel and fantastic rock formations peeked from the hills. The road was in good condition and road tyres would probably cope just fine in the dry.

Nestled between the lake and rock formations was the Dunns swamp campsite.

Perch with a rod

Designated campsites have been provided, and some have fire pits. Firewood was also provided. Hole-in-the ground toilets were dotted around with easy access to the campsites. It’s a first-in-first-served basis and camp fees are six dollars per person per night. Payment is left in an envelope at the information billboard.

During the warmer months canoe hire is available and you can take a tour of the lake or explore on your own. Numerous walking tracks are marked out and NSW Department Of Primary Industries has stocked the lake with trout, Murray cod and golden perch. You can still catch a decent perch on a lure – but don’t forget a fishing licence.

It’s an impressive place to camp. Sitting by the river with a rod or just relaxing by a fire with friends, it’s a brilliant way to end a day’s ride.

Water, boys

Overcast skies, a light layer of fog over the lake and the squawk of birds heralded a new day.

After a filling breakfast and packing up camp we bid farewell to our friends and headed out. The route back to Sydney was set to take us through the Capertee Valley and the turnoff to Glen Alice was a few kilometres from Rylstone onto a road used predominately by farmers. We only saw a few cars as the road meandered from one valley to the next, and sandstone rose from the ground and hid us from the outside world.

We stopped for coffee at Glen Alice and a couple of KTMs rode past and gave us a wave. I decided to count the cars while drinking my coffee to gauge how busy the road gets. I started: “One…”.

That was it.

We hit gravel closer to Glen Davis, a company town built in 1938. It was created to extract oil from the shale in the area. Once the major employer in the region with 2500 staff, the industry collapsed and the town was abandoned in 1952. Remnants of shops remain in the town centre, but brick steps and chimneys are the only indicators of how busy the streets once were.

You can no longer walk freely through the factory ruins, but tours can be organised by The Poplars at Glen Davis. Phone them on (02) 6379 7380 to book in. Tours are at 2:00pm on Saturdays.

Free camping is available at Coorongooba campground about five kilometres out of town, but you need to bring your own water. The road back to Capertee is sealed and a pleasure to ride.

Something for everyone

As a relaxing weekend ride from Sydney with good camping facilities, both Dunns swamp and Glen Davis are ideal.

There’s ample watering holes along the way for the weary rider to pull up, stretch the legs and have an ale and a pie. It’s not much for a rider to spend, but it keeps these small towns alive. Road conditions are good, so you don’t need to be a hardened rider with state-of-the-art adventure bike.

If doing a trip with a group of hard riders, just let them do their thing and meet them at the next major intersection while you take in the scenery.

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